New Mexico

We've been in New Mexico for almost two weeks now and we are loving it! We drove down from Cortez through Shiprock NM to Farmington NM. Then, after a brief trip back to Durango, we went to Aztec NM and rode the Alien Run mountain bike trail. It goes past an (alleged) alien crash site from 1948, where 16 alien bodies were found before being quickly removed. We met the super nice fellows who built the trail as we were leaving and they filled us in on the details.

We also went to Los Alamos, home of the Manhattan Project. The town is actually really pretty and you'd never guess that it was the birthplace of the nuclear bomb...until you have to show your I.D. as you go through a check point that goes past the laboratories. You can visit the labs if you want, but you have to go through the check point even if you're just passing through. We were actually headed to the Valles Caldara National Preserve, home of a super volcano! The caldara is over 12 miles long. Here's a photo of a small part of it:

We hiked a trail called the East Fork that went into a box canyon. Besides being incredibly beautiful, the stream running through it had gold!

Luke, the aspiring gold miner

Gold!!

We learned earlier in our travels that you find gold in the black sand of rivers. There was so many flecks of gold all through the river! However, this area is one of the few where it is illegal to pan for gold (which is why the gold hasn't been taken already) so we regretfully left it where we found it. It was beautiful to see though!
Further down the canyon we saw this lovely little waterfall:

And here's a sweet fluffy flower I found:

We also spent some time in Santa Fe. It is an incredibly artistic city. We wandered around for a couple of days and finally had a good experience with a mechanic (we had yet another repair to do on the truck. sigh. ) We made a trip to Taos, which has crazy amazing mountains and is also super artsy. There is an earthship community just outside the city (where the homes are made from recycled materials, use passive heating/cooling and recycle their water). The visitor centre was unfortunately closed when we got there, but I took a photo of one of the homes:

Taos also has the oldest continuously inhabited pueblo community (which was also closed to visitors when we tried to go there). The weather wasn't great when we were there however, so we headed down to Albuquerque. We didn't get to bike any of the trails in Santa Fe, Taos or Los Alamos, so we have unfinished business there.

We both really like Albuquerque! It is located in the Rio Grand Rift Valley, with the large Sandia Mountains on the east (sandia means 'watermelon' in Spanish, since the mountain glows red as the sun sets, with the layer of green trees at the top) on one side and the The Sisters dormant volcanos on the other side. The volcanos are a rare example of fissure eruption, where the magma rises along thin cracks. The fissure is over 8km long! The mountain is still slowly rising and the valley is still slowly dropping, being one of only a few active rifts in the world.
We visited the volcanos and I particularly enjoyed walking on the volcanic rock--its hollow sound makes me feel like I'm walking on cheerios.

We went to the Sandia Caves, one of the oldest cave dwellings known from the Pleistocene era. The trail to get there was pretty short and easy, but the climb up the spiral staircase to get to the cave didn't make the afraid-of-heights me too too happy.

the stairs. why did the have to make them see-through?

Here's the entrance to the cave. All the significant finds from the people who lived here (including mastodon bones!) have been removed and there has been substantial vandalism.

the entrance to the cave

The cave goes back quite a ways, but it is blocked off. Here's the view at the furthest point you can walk:

 It's hard to see, but it does continue on. On a sad note, we met a fellow at the cave whose nephew had commented suicide a couple of days before. They used to go to the cave together and he had taken a break from the funeral preparations to come to that quiet place to honour him.

On a happier note, Luke always takes his gps along when he is biking the trails and he recently inputed the info into his computer. Here are the details of his mountain biking on the trip so far:

2,710 km

377 hours

107,779 calories

climb 189,410'

descend 206,725'

My details are less than this, but still a happy amount for me :) 

I'd also like to show off my new socks for a moment.

 What's that swimming in my sock?

 Sock Shark!

And finally, here is a photo taken at a Walmart parking lot:

In my next post I'll share some photos from our visit to the White Mesa, and my new past time of geocaching!

Durango and Cortez CO

It is a beautiful fall morning in Durango--most of the tree's leaves have changed colour and there isn't a single cloud in the bright blue sky. We drove down the Million Dollar Highway to get here and the drive between Ouray and Silverton was unbelievable! Ouray is the most beautiful little town, nestled in a valley closely surrounded by tall mountains on all sides--paradise! Silverton is an adorable town with old west style buildings and the drive between them on the highway had incredible views. However, my camera battery had died through that whole journey so I don't have a single shot. Luke did take some photos though, so I'll post them once I get them from him.

The highway is described as "challenging and potentially hazardous to drive; it is characterized by steep cliffs, narrow lanes, and a lack of guardrails" by Wikipedia (and by a nice fellow we met at a laundromat who recommended the drive). I do not like heights and curvy roads in the mountains make me nervous...but we've been on so many roads like that on our trip that it didn't even occur to me that this road was 'potentially hazardous'. It kind of seemed normal actually. I have to give huge credit to Luke for both doing all the driving, and for being such an exceptional driver that I can even handle being on those roads at all!

We've been in the Durango area for about a week. Durango is so awesome--there are so many trails and people on bikes everywhere! One of Luke's favourite mountain bike idols, Ned Overland, lives here so I've been hearing lots of stories about "The Lung".
We also spent a few days in Cortez, where my new favourite trails are--Phil's World! They are crazy fun.
Just outside of Cortez is Mesa Verde, which is covered in ancient dwellings of the Ancestral Puebloans (formerly known as the Anasazi). They had been living on the top of the mesa, where the soils were superior, but eventually they moved their buildings (called Pueblos) to the sides of the cliffs to protect themselves from invaders. You can see what I mean in these photos:

Glowing in the setting sun

Can you see the pueblos? 

View through a window into the Sun Temple (which was never completed)

The Ancient Puebloans ended up leaving this whole area within a couple of generations. At one point in time it was a huge mystery as to what happened to them, since it seemed like they had disappeared. After much investigation archeologists learned that these people actually left for lower areas because their lives on the mesa weren't working for them any more (due to things like drought and depletion of resources).

We also saw this wild horse up on the mesa:

YAY!

When we were looking at one of the many great views on the mesa a large crowd of crows gathered overheard. They were swirling around in the air currents and when they would come close by they sounded like jets! I've never heard anything like it before from birds.

We also did a bike ride in the Canyons of the Ancients, where you could go down spur trails and see other remnants of pueblos.

Our next stop will be New Mexico!

Palisade Rim trail

Here's another video of Luke riding the Palisade Rim Trail. Luke's been busy!

Grand Mesa--the bear edition

I've finally got around to posting the now edited video of our time on the Grand Mesa with the bear. Listen for my bleeped our swearing and when I squeak a tiny 'hey' at the bear after Luke has already scared it away!

Teocalli

Grand Junction and Fruita

We headed for Grand Junction after Crested Butte and we've had nothing but beautiful weather ever since!

But before that here are some photos from Crested Butte that I didn't include in the last post:

Luke got snowed on while on a trail up on a ridge in this area. I stayed down lower and just got rained on.  

The first night we spent in Fruita we stayed at a campground with these adorable bunnies :

There was also this unusual grass. You can see what it looks like when closed in the background.

The campground was beside a dinosaur museum (I love dinos!!) and this area in general has had numerous dino fossil discoveries. I love dinos so much that this is pretty much how I see myself:

We also stayed at the Island Acres campground in Palasade CO. This is one of the views:

The Colorado River was on the other side. Such a beautiful spot!
We spent some time on the Palasade Rim Trail. Here's a view from part of the trail:

Pretty flowers on the trail

There was also petroglyphs on some of the rocks.

Even though there is a sign asking people to respect the petroglyphs and not to touch the rocks, people had scratched such things as 'Hi' and happy faces onto them. At first I was annoyed but then I thought about how, although it is pretty garbage art in my eyes, those people had done what our ancestors had done. Who am I to judge?

We also drove up to the Grand Mesa, which is the largest flat-top mountain in the world! We went there at the advice of a lovely couple from Whitehorse that we met at the campground. The first time they made the drive up the roads had gotten very slippery so they had to turn around and had a hard time coming back down. The snow and ice had mostly melted over the next couple of days though, so they made it all the way up on their next attempt.

I was so impressed with how many lakes and forests there are--you'd never expect it given the desert you find down below. Here's the view from the trailhead of our bike ride up there:

And this the view from part way up:

We also had an amazing sunset:

You can see one of the many patches of snow in this shot. It was chilly, but worth it for the view!

Our bike ride was mostly flat and easily, with some muddy bits and some patches of snow on the trail to bike through. We came up to a look-out point that was at the edge of a large field, with a smallish bit of woods to the side. Just as we arrived, a huge 500+ black bear emerged from the trees about 100 metres away and was heading straight for us! Luke yelled out and the bear turned around and ran in the opposite direction, so we were fine...but it freaked me out all the same.  I've never been that close to that big of a bear in the middle of nowhere before. Luke was just starting to record the view when this all happened, so we have it on video. I'll post it next time so you can see the incredible landscape and hear the yelling :)

Colorado

We've had a great couple of weeks in Colorado! We started off in Fort Collins, where our good friend's brother had lived for many years. It's a super nice place with a great recreation area called Horsetooth Reservoir (the one downside was the horrible numbers of centipedes in their shower building <shudder>).  We also went to Loveland, an area known for its artist community. Here's a shiny giraffe I saw on the street:

It's still mostly desert in that area, but it wasn't long before we were in the lush Rocky Mountains.

We spent half a day checking out Boulder. It's a very vibrant city with what looks to be a thriving economy. Piles of people there are active--we saw so many people out for a run or bike ride and didn't see one person who was overweight. Unfortunately the drivers there are absolutely insane, so the cyclists seem to stick to the sidewalks and paths to the side of the streets.

We then drove up into the foothills of the Rockys, up to Nederland. One of the things that stuck both of us was how many people and houses are everywhere up in the mountains. We've been in a lot of mountainous areas on our trip, but Colorado is the first time that we're seen so much development. I certainly can't blame people for wanting to live in these areas...but it changes things. Anyway, the weather was a bit cold so we made it a day of chores and finished the day having a coffee in an adorable coffee shop built in a couple of train cars.

Our friends Ute and Steveo arrived at the Denver airport the next day (Luke's birthday!) so we made our way there to meet up with them. They had rented an RV so we had true camping buddies to travel with :) They had their first overnight camping in a Walmart parking lot experience that night. It's old hat for us dirtbags now, but it was funny to see their reaction and a reminder that what we are doing isn't exactly mainstream. They survived and we headed out to Buffalo Creek the next day and spent some time on the beautiful trails.

Next we headed to Pike's Peak, but not before we stopped at a dinosaur museum for a couple of hours (I *love* dinosaurs, so I was happy as can be). We then drove the truck up the 20 mile road to the 14000 ft top of Pile's Peak. There is a trail called the Barr trail that starts at the summit and descends 8000 ft to the bottom at Manitou Springs. It was too advanced of a ride for me, so I shuttled them to the top and got to enjoy the amazing view!

 At the trailhead--look at that view!

 Some snowy spots

 View part way down

 At the start of the ride

I started the descent down (some of the road is narrow with tight hairpin turns and steep cliffs...not my favourite) and all was going well until I reached a car that had caught on fire traveling up the road. It had happened a few minutes before I got there and luckily happened where there was a rest area where I could pull off to park and wait. Even more luckily, no one was hurt. It took 1.5 hours for the firetruck and police to come, put out the fire and clear the road for cars to pass.
As I eventually drove past I saw there was barely a shell of a car left. It was burning for at least 45 minutes, so it didn't come as a surprise...but it was shocking to see all the same.

I also snapped a shot of the Big Foot warning sign on the side of the road:

"Due to sightings in the area of a creature resembling "Big Foot" this sign has been posted for your safety"

I made it to the bottom 10 minutes before the bikers arrived and we went for a well deserved dinner at a pub down the street. We learned from the waitress that the two cats hanging around, both missing a leg, were products of a time when the town was overrun with cats. There was lots of inbreeding going on (hence the missing legs) and the city had to trap a bunch of them. The interesting things you learn!

Our next day was spent in Salida/Poncho Springs. Luke, Ute and Steveo took on the 60km Monarch Crest Epic bike ride (where they saw another forest fire) while I puttered around on the trail network closer to town. I must admit that it was nice to have an RV to relax in, especially for dinner once the sun goes down.

We had originally planned to go north to Breckenridge or Steamboat Springs, however Luke discovered that they already had a fair bit of snow so we decided to go to Buena Vista and Gunnison instead. We went to a fantastic hot springs called the Cottonwood Hot Springs and stayed at a lovely campground where we heard coyotes howling in the night.

Steveo and Ute headed back to Denver on the Friday to catch their flights the next day. They had expected to leave early Friday morning but when they went to start the RV the battery was dead. Luckily we were still around so Luke and Steveo drove to town to buy jumper cables and after a couple of minutes of re-charging the RV started again. We also learned that the pass they were planning on taking back was snowy and icy from the night before, so getting on the road later than planned worked to their advantage since gave the road crews time to sand the roads. Unfortunately for them it meant that they couldn't sneak one more bike ride in before they left Colorado...but it was nice to be able to spend a bit more time with them! (and they made it over the pass with no problems!)

Luke and I headed up to Crested Butte. What an amazing place! It's incredibly beautiful and surrounded by mountains. I fell in love! Luke had been there a number of years ago when it was a tiny town of little wooden buildings, so he was disappointed to see that the town is much larger now. The trails (that we saw anyway) are also a bit wrecked from ATV, motorbike and horse activity. And real estate is super expensive. Luke biked the Teocalli Ridge trail, where he got snowed and saw many, many hunters shooting at things in the woods :/ I stayed down lower to do a hike and saw many cows out to pasture.

Gunnison Forest, down the road from Crested Butte

We've been at pretty high elevations all week and the thinner atmosphere makes it harder to breathe. I'm hoping that will make us superstars when we get to down to more normal elevations :D We're now trying to avoid the cold and snow so we'll be heading west.

Rain....

After leaving Boise we made our way over to Sun Valley/Ketchem Idaho. We had been there at the beginning of our trip and were hoping to check out more of the trails. However this time we ended up being there when they were having a number of days of rain, so we didn't get onto more trails this time. It's such a beautiful area though--I'm sure we'll end up there again at some point!

As we were driving to our next destination, Idaho Falls, we drove through The Craters of the Moon National Park. It is such an interesting place! It has fields of black rock formed by lava flows of the Great Rift fissure system. We went through around dinner time, so the info centre was closed (Luke tells me that my love of info centres makes me a nerd)...but wikipedia tells me that it's a difficult environment for plants and animals because of dry winds and the heat absorbed by the black lava (summer soil temps often exceed 66 degrees!).
The good news is the weather was still stormy, so we got some dramatic photos!

 Luke and a rainbow

Sun breaking through the clouds

The weather continued to be rainy in Idaho Falls. And it was still rainy in Driggs and Jackson WY. That was pretty disappointing because we returned to the area to get on the trails that were too snowy the first time we were there in late May. The trails are supposed to be particularly good. Luckily it's somewhat close to Sun Valley so we can make it a big missed trail trip in the future :)

There was more rain in Laramie and Cheyenne WY and the ever present Wyoming wind made it pretty cold a lot of the time. We luckily had a reprise for an afternoon--the skies were still filled with dark clouds, but it didn't rain--so we went to the Curt Gowdy State Park. I was very pleasantly surprised! It is a super beautiful area with really well marked trails (believe me, this is a big plus) and a big variety of trails with around 70km of trails to choose from. Some of the trails were super easy, except for the strong winds making it a rough go when it was a head wind. Other trails had super fun rock slabs. I didn't get to the hard stuff but Luke said there was a trail that was super challenging (which is saying something).
I saw some mule deer (one was super bouncy) but Luke saw mule deer, a jack rabbit, a golden eagle, and a rattlesnake! All of his encounters were pretty close, because the trails were twisting around big rocks so he would surprise them at the turns. The rattlesnake actually attacked his front wheel when he was coming off a tight squeeze on a bridge--he didn't have room to back up and the little guy attacked and bounced off his spoke before taking off.

Here are some photos from the area:

 View from the trail

We're now in Fort Collins CO. Luke found a photo posted by a biker of an aggressive rattlesnake on the trails around here. I will be very extra cautious around here!!!

More Washington

Did we take a break from our North American trip to pop over to Germany for a bit of beer and schnitzel?
Nope! This is Leavenworth WA, a small town tucked on the edge of the Okanagan-Wenatchee National Forest, that designed its downtown to look like a Bavarian village. It's quite cute, in a cheesy kind of way.

Bavarian Starbucks

Local bike shop--Das Rad Haus

Statue in town

When we got to town there was a forest fire part way up one of the mountains, just outside of town. For the entire first day there were non-stop helicopters flying over to dump water on the fire to contain it. After our first day it was under control so the helicopter became much less frequent. We saw smoke for two more days coming from the area though. The fire was man made (even though there's been fire bans because of their hot dry summer)--which made watching the effort and expense needed to put it out all the more upsetting.

if you look closely, you can see the helicopter dumping water

We stayed at a retired campground that is still used unofficially about 15 minutes outside of town. It was a great site with an outhouse strangely decorated with candleholders, small flags and a glass picture of Neuschwanstein Castle (it was the first time I've seen an outhouse decorated at all, now that I think about it).
The unfortunate feature of the site was that there was a whole lot mice running around at night. Normally I think mice are quite cute (even with having mice in our apartment for a few months in Hamilton) but I don't feel that way at night, when they get into the truck while we're sleeping in it.  They got both into the back and front (as seen by the poops that they left behind, that I had to clean the next day). The worst part of it was when they ran on top of us--one ran across Luke's arm over his sleeping bag, while one CRAWLED ONTO MY HEAD. I don't think it'll come as a surprise that I didn't get much sleep that night, nor did Luke (although the mice don't bother him like they bother me).
Luckily we still have a sheet that we used to block the spaces in the gate (the only place they can get in) from when we were sleeping in swarming mosquito country. The subsequent nights we used the sheet and remained mouse-free. We could still hear them running around and on top of the truck, but that I can handle.

beach down the road from campsite

Luke met a super nice guy named Paul and they went for a bike ride together on one of the trails on the ski hill. Paul is a freelance journalist who also works for a bike part company (that makes a belt-drive for bikes instead of using a chain) and recently moved to Leavenworth from Tahoe. He lived for a few years in Colorado before that, so he had lots of advice of what to do when we get there at the beginning of October. He also invited us for beer and vegetarian bratwurst after their ride--wunderbar!

We drove back to Seattle that night and did some chores before going back to Duthie bike park for some fun. I decided I wanted to learn how to jump my bike and there is a area of progressive jumps at Duthie. So, Luke coached me through it and it went really well! I was learning how to do a manual jump and not only was I getting it but I wasn't feeling scared or freaked out about it either (I'm not the bravest biker). We went off to ride some of the other stuff and at the end Luke told me to do one last jump on the way out. So I enthusiastically launch off and....crash hard. Ironically, Luke had just been telling me how usually if people are going to crash it tends to be at the end of a ride. Luckily I was wearing padding so I didn't have a scratch on me. However, I landed on my hip and I now have a large bruise and had to take a few days off to recover. It was worth learning to jump though!

The next day we met up with our good friend Leena's friends Jim and Michael. They have a company repairing and building organs and we were invited to see their shop. Their shop is on Camano Island on a property that has horses and a **llama**. Two of the horses were super sweet and friendly and came over to be pet. They also have an amazing dog named Sara. She was a rescue from Spain, where her breed (padenco) is used as a hunting dog and frequently abused and abandoned by their owners. Sara narrowly escaped being destroyed and is now happy in her new home. She has such a sweet, fun disposition and she was made to run.
The most exciting part of Sara is that Luke loved her as much as I did! I've been teasing/nagging Luke about getting a trail dog (at some point) and up until meeting Sara Luke would only frown at me. However, Luke gets a big smile on his face when Sara is mentioned and he admitted the other day that he'd looked up information on her breed (as had I!).  When I mentioned that there isn't really room in the truck for a dog, Luke said 'then we'll have to get a puppy' (!!!!!). I doubt we'll get one while on the road, but this bodes well for a trail dog at some point in the future :)
Anyway, Jim and Michael did a wonderful job of showing us their shop and filling us in on many of the detailed details of organs and how they are repaired. It's amazingly complicated! (at least it seems that way to me). They also shared some of Michael's delicious homemade pickles with us. It was a great visit!

We then traveled down the 410 highway into the Mt.Rainier National Park. My hip was still a bit messed up from the fall, so Luke did a bike ride while I did a hike. We had some great views of Mt.Rainier.

The next morning ended up being rainy and cooler, so we decided to keep driving through, past Yakima and over to Boise Idaho. We stopped at a little lake to make breakfast and while we were there large clouds/mist blew through and covered the area in clouds. I'd never seen clouds move that fast and low to the ground like that before.

Boise is an interesting place! Most of the city is on pretty flat ground, but there are foothills and then mountains that begin at the edge of town and go really far back! It's particularly interesting because the foothills begin as desert with no trees and only little sage shrubs, but as you go up all of a sudden trees start appearing and it's forested. There's a ski hill partway up called Bogus Basin and there's trails all over.
Luke did a ride in the lower desert area yesterday while I took one last day of recovery (today will be my first day back on the bike). It was super hot though (33 degrees). Luckily it's not humid...but I still found the heat oppressive.

desert blue skies, yellow grass and a small Luke on his bike